You’re paying for a 100Mbps connection. Your speed test shows 20Mbps on a good day. Your provider swears everything is fine on their end.

The problem is almost certainly your Wi-Fi setup, not your internet connection.

The Router Your ISP Gave You Is Garbage

Let’s start with the obvious culprit: that modem-router combo your ISP provided when you signed up. It’s designed to be cheap, not good.

These devices typically have weak antennas, outdated Wi-Fi standards, and processors that struggle when multiple devices connect simultaneously. They’re engineered to meet the bare minimum specification required to deliver your plan’s advertised speed under perfect conditions.

Perfect conditions don’t exist in real homes.

Telstra, Optus, TPG—they all do this. The equipment is adequate for a small apartment with two devices. Anything more and you’ll notice the limitations.

Where You Put the Router Matters Enormously

Wi-Fi signals degrade through walls, especially brick or concrete. They’re blocked by metal. They’re absorbed by water (including the water in your body).

If your router is tucked away in a cupboard, behind the TV, or at the far corner of your house, you’re killing your signal before it even has a chance.

Ideal router placement is central and elevated. Middle of the house, on a shelf, away from walls and metal objects. Not in the study at the back of the house. Not on the floor behind the couch.

I know it’s ugly. Put it somewhere visible anyway.

The 2.4GHz vs 5GHz Problem

Most modern routers broadcast on two frequencies: 2.4GHz and 5GHz.

2.4GHz has better range and penetrates walls more effectively, but it’s slower and crowded. Every router in your neighbourhood is using it, along with baby monitors, microwaves, and Bluetooth devices. It’s a traffic jam.

5GHz is faster and less congested but has shorter range and struggles with walls.

Many people connect everything to 2.4GHz and wonder why it’s slow. Or they connect to 5GHz from two rooms away and wonder why it keeps dropping out.

The solution is to use both strategically: 5GHz for devices close to the router that need speed, 2.4GHz for devices farther away or that don’t need much bandwidth.

Some routers handle this automatically. Many don’t. You might need to manually connect devices to the appropriate network.

Interference From Neighbours

If you live in an apartment or a dense suburb, you’re competing with dozens of other Wi-Fi networks for airspace.

All those routers are broadcasting on a limited number of channels. When multiple routers use the same channel, they interfere with each other, slowing everyone down.

Most routers auto-select channels, but they often make poor choices. Apps like WiFi Analyzer (Android) or NetSpot (Mac/Windows) can show you which channels are crowded and which are relatively clear.

Manually switching to a less congested channel can make a noticeable difference. This requires logging into your router’s admin panel, which most people never do, but it’s worth the 10 minutes.

Your Devices Are Old

A brand new router won’t help if your laptop’s Wi-Fi card is from 2015.

Wi-Fi standards have evolved: 802.11n (Wi-Fi 4), 802.11ac (Wi-Fi 5), 802.11ax (Wi-Fi 6), and now Wi-Fi 7. Each generation is faster and more efficient.

If your router supports Wi-Fi 6 but your laptop only supports Wi-Fi 4, you’re limited by the laptop. The connection will work, but you’re not getting the full speed potential.

Phones and laptops from the past few years usually support Wi-Fi 5 or 6. Older devices? You might be stuck with slower standards.

Too Many Connected Devices

The average Australian household now has 20+ connected devices. Phones, laptops, tablets, smart TVs, gaming consoles, security cameras, smart speakers, robot vacuums.

Budget routers struggle when 15 devices are all trying to maintain connections simultaneously, even if most aren’t actively transferring data.

Higher-end routers handle multiple devices better, with more processing power and technologies like MU-MIMO (multi-user, multiple input, multiple output) that allow simultaneous communication with multiple devices instead of rapidly switching between them.

The Ethernet Solution

Wi-Fi is convenient, but it’ll never match wired connections for speed and reliability.

If you have devices that don’t move (desktop computers, gaming consoles, smart TVs), connect them via Ethernet. This frees up Wi-Fi bandwidth for devices that actually need the wireless capability.

Running Ethernet cables isn’t always practical, but if you can manage it, the improvement is dramatic. Or look into powerline adapters, which use your home’s electrical wiring to create wired connections. They’re not as fast as proper Ethernet but better than Wi-Fi.

When to Upgrade Your Router

If your router is more than four years old, it’s probably worth replacing. Wi-Fi technology has advanced significantly, and modern routers are genuinely better at handling the demands of contemporary households.

You don’t need the top-of-the-line $600 router. A decent $150-250 router from brands like TP-Link, Asus, or Netgear will outperform the ISP-provided hardware for most people.

For larger homes, mesh Wi-Fi systems (Google Nest WiFi, Eero, Netgear Orbi) solve coverage issues by placing multiple access points around your house. They’re more expensive but eliminate dead zones effectively.

Check Your Internet Plan Too

Sometimes the problem actually is your internet plan. If you’re on a 25Mbps plan and expecting streaming on three devices while gaming, you’re asking for disappointment.

Run a speed test while connected directly to the modem via Ethernet. If you’re getting close to your plan’s advertised speed, your internet connection is fine and Wi-Fi is the issue. If you’re getting significantly less, contact your ISP.

According to the ACCC’s broadband monitoring program, most major Australian ISPs deliver 90%+ of advertised speeds during peak times, so if you’re consistently getting much less, there might be a line issue.

The Quick Wins

Before spending money on new equipment:

• Move your router to a central, elevated location
• Switch to a less congested Wi-Fi channel
• Connect stationary devices via Ethernet
• Separate your 2.4GHz and 5GHz networks and use each appropriately
• Restart your router (unplug it for 30 seconds, plug it back in)

These fixes cost nothing and often make a significant difference.

If you’ve tried all that and you’re still getting terrible Wi-Fi, then it’s probably time to invest in better equipment. Your internet plan is only as good as the weakest link in your network, and for most people, that’s the Wi-Fi.